1001 Faces of Istanbul

Istanbul…
… one of those places difficult to define. Some would call it ‘capital of the World’ or ‘capital of the Empire’, others ‘cradle of cultures’ and others ‘the worst place to live’; ‘ hell on earth’.

Graffiti on the streets of Istanbul (I don’t know about the Heaven, but the Hell is here)

I’ve spent more than 1001 days in this city and I still find it difficult to reply to a simple question: ‘What is Istanbul like?’ Maybe it’s because I have been here too long and I’ve come to realise that there is no simple answer to this question. Istanbul has many faces, many nuances if you will. It is difficult to explain them to a total stranger or a person who has never visited the city. Even though you have visited the city once, you have probably lifted only one veil from its face. If you were born here, this doesn’t make you an Istanbul expert neither.

You have to get to know Istanbul slowly, day by day, page by page, neighbourhood by neighbourhood. This is actually very difficult because neighbourhoods are changing fast and new are growing even faster. Living all the time in one neighbourhood and meet only people from that place, this won’t help either. The phenomena of Istanbul is that you can live in a bubble for ages without noticing it…or being well aware of it and being comfortable with it. This won’t help you to dive into the secrets of Istanbul either.

You should be in a relationship with Istanbul. It might get complicated, you will have good and bad days. You will hate it and love it. After years of this relationship, it might still surprise you. You will still discover many new things about your partner. And yourself. It will push you to your limits. You’ll take a lot of good pictures together. On one hand, people will envy you (at the end you live in a city which others only visit), on the another, they will think that you are crazy. How can you live here? It’s always crowded, polluted, traffic jams are an everyday’s reality, it is huge, too big to handle, it exhausts you…

… but it has the sea, beautiful Bosphorus view, you can stop the time crossing the straight with a ferry. Or a cup of tea. It’s always too hot at the beginning, or too sharp for your palate, but then you’ll get used to it. You still won’t be sure if it’s colour is dark red or brown… (one more thing to discover). It is also home to people from all over the World. You can travel to any corner of this planet without really leaving Istanbul. This experience will make you richer, but you have to surrender. It’s the city that never sleeps. You can go shopping anytime. Or eating, or drinking. 9pm or 10pm is not too late for anything. Day has only just begun. You can as well also go out there alone, get mixed in a crowd. Or just sip your coffee (or tea) and observe the people. If you want to run away, you might as well chose one of its islands.

Already Jean-Paul Sartre was well aware that hell is the people around you, and I guess it goes the same for heaven. And the same analogy we can use for any city in the World. You can surround yourself with your tribe and you will be just fine. I do confess that certain place do add some of their positive energy to the mix. And Istanbul is one of those places. So how would you define Istanbul?

…as a heaven and hell mixed in a glass of tea, sometimes with sugar, sometimes without. I still don’t know, how strong do I like my tea, but Istanbul is definitely my cup of tea…

In case you want to learn more about Istanbul and get a more personal view of the city and its history, I recommend you to read Orhan Pamuk’s Istanbul.

4 Reasons to Love Ramadan

One more year has passed and Ramadan (Turkish Ramazan) is again here. What is Ramadan? Well, first of all, is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. Muslims follow the lunar calendar, that is why according to the solar calendar, dates vary every year. So, if we compare it to the solar calendar, the month of Ramadan starts approximately 10 days earlier than the previous year. First day (and the last one) again may vary. Why is that so? In some countries the date of the beginning of Ramadan is set, that is when the previous month finishes, Ramadan will start, meanwhile others would start fasting when they see a moon crescent. Moon is a sign of a new month. So they start observing the sky after the sunset of the 29th day of the month preceding Ramadan (which is the month of Shaban). This is also the reason, why one group of Muslim would finish fasting and start Eid a day before others. In other words, when some are still fasting, others would already feast.

There are also certain differences regarding fasting. Muslim fast during the time of daylight. This can have 2 meanings: some wait until the sundown, meanwhile other would wait until it is completely dark. In Turkey Iftar (breaking of the feast) coincides with sundown. Fast is usually broken with water and dates. After iftar, there is usually a long night prayer. Especially when Ramadan is observed during the summertime, many people won’t sleep after that prayer. They stay awake and wait until Suhoor (early morning meal), which is the last meal of the day (and afterwards they would fast again until the Iftar). In May 2018 (in Istanbul) Sahur meal is eaten around 3:45 am. Time is changing every day.

We all know, that Muslims fast during the month of Ramadan, but why do they fast? There might be different personal reasons, but one of the main is that during the month of Ramadan they celebrate Muhammed receiving the holy book of Islam, Quran.

If you decide to visit Turkey during this period, then don’t worry, you will not need to fast. In big cities, like Istanbul, restaurants are mostly opened all day long, though restaurants are emptier than usual. Some restaurants are closed or open later than usual.

And what do I love about Ramadan in Istanbul?

1. Less traffic. Yes, yes, yes! One of my favourite things about Ramadan in Istanbul is far fewer traffic jams than usual. In the last few years, Ramadan was observed in the months of May, June, July and August, so Iftar times were between 7:30pm to 20:30pm, this coincides with the time when people commute from work to home. When it comes to Ramadan, people probably run home (or stay at home all day long) not to be late for iftar. There are also fewer people on the streets, so if you are not fasting you can enjoy walking on empty streets. If you have ever visited Istanbul, you know that this is quite impossible during the rest of the months.

Ramadan Pidesi. (Pinterest)

2. Less cigarette smoke. Smokers rule Istanbul. So do cats, but I prefer the latter. For more information about this problem, read my Ode to Smokers on Medium.

3. Food and Friends. That may sound strange, but there is nothing like Ramadan dinner. And Ramadan pide. The smell of freshly baked pide bread heats hearts and stomachs of those who fast and those who don’t. And I especially love the spirit of sharing food with friends. Many people gather in restaurants, parks, around mosques or homes to share their iftar dinners. During the month of Ramadan, food has this power of stopping the time and connecting people again. It doesn’t matter if you fast or not, but I am sure that you will enjoy sharing with food those who do. There are also some traditional dishes, sweets and drinks which are only eaten during the month of Ramadan. This aspect of Ramadan might be compared to Christmas tradition.

Mahya

4. Longer Nights and Mahya. When Ramadan coincides with summer months, it is especially nice to enjoy a night walks and çays or indulging sweets late in the night. It might be my personal observation, but I feel that people become more relaxed after iftar meal fills their stomachs and this positive energy can be felt in the atmosphere. And in Turkey, there is another thing that lights up the Ramadan nights: Mahya. Mahya is the name for lit writing which is tied between two minarets of the mosque.

Week #16: The Golden Horn View

What makes a perfect breakfast for you? For me, a delicious, fresh food and a good company. Breakfast has to give me a fuel for a day. However, some people go just for a nice view. I’ve noticed that many new terrace cafes have opened on the roofs between Süleymaniye and Eminönü districts. I have visited one closer to Eminönü recently (A Terrace above Bazaar), but this time the path led me to a terrace close to the Süleymaniye mosque, which has a beautiful view over the Golden Horn.

If you are not too picky when it comes to food and you want to enjoy a nice view over the Golden Horn, then Chay Tea&Coffee Süleymaniye is the right place for you. Tea is not included in the price of the breakfast plate.

Adress: Süleymaniye Mahallesi, Dökmeciler Hamamı Sk. No:1/13 34116 Fatih/İstanbul

Week #15: Calling All Cheese Lovers

A few years ago I wouldn’t believe you, but cheese can take you to paradise. I have discovered a yummy kaymak a few weeks ago (A Kaymak Made in Heaven) in the Galata district. When I was younger I didn’t like cheese at all. Then I started with the basics and now I love some types of cheese. If it’s organic even better.

I’ve recently been to Kahve 6 in Cihangir where I had Dolu Dolu kahvalti. This breakfast plate includes 6 different types of cheese which means that it’s a perfect choice for all the cheese lovers. While indulging in it, I got that Proust moment: one of the cheeses even reminded me of a dish my uncle used to prepare for us.

Besides cheese, I decided to give another chance to salça, as Antakya’s salça was really delicious.

The breakfast plate doesn’t include eggs, so if you are one of those, who cannot have a breakfast without an egg, you’ll have to order it extra.
Besides cheese, salça, honey&kaymak and some veggies, homemade bread and (only one) cup of tea is included.

Kahve 6 might get pretty busy on weekends, so consider yourself lucky if you get a free table. Even though waiters are busy, they were very helpful and the service was fast.

Adress: Kılıçali Paşa Mahallesi, Akarsu Caddesi Anahtar Sokak 13/A, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul

They also serve vegan breakfast.

Week #14: Swing in a Village

Kadıköy, especially Yeldeğirmeni neighbourhood is full of surprises. One can find many interesting cafes, restaurants and bars. I wrote about one of the most popular breakfast destination in the area before (check Week #6). This time I have visited another place, called Village. On a cold day, it can accommodate just a few people, as they only have 5 tables inside, but Spring is here and their back garden is definitely one of the perfect locations if you want to enjoy breakfast, sun and escape from crowds.

Prices are reasonable as well: for sıcak kahvaltı and breakfast for two with unlimited tea, we paid 66 tl. It was enough food for three people. In comparison to other cafes in the area, this one is quite, so suitable for all those people who are searching for a quiet cafe to work at. (Obviously, this might change on weekends).

Adress: Rasimpaşa Mahallesi, Recaizade Sk. No:54, 34716 Kadıköy/İstanbul

Week #13: A Terrace above the Bazaar

Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Sirkeci areas are usually considered to be touristy areas, hence more expensive. But sometimes you need to give this area a second chance and explore it. New places are opening every year and some might surprise you in a positive way.

After all the Instagram stories I have seen, I have decided to finally go for a breakfast to a place hidden among çarşis, but still very close to the Eminönü square: Mim kahve. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t really nice and I couldn’t enjoy nice views from their top floor. More then for breakfast, this place is famous for a great variety of coffee, good view and interior design.

Their breakfast plate (Kahvaltı tabağı) is pretty big and it costs only 22tl. Among other things, it includes also french fries (which I exchanged for extra veggies), tahin pekmezi and unlimited tea. View from the top floor is really nice, however, it might be a bit difficult to find it. I recommend it to search for it with the help of Google Maps.

Adress: Demirtaş Mah. Deveoğlu Sk. No:10, Eminönü, 34134 Fatih/İstanbul

Besides in Eminönü, you can also find them in Üsküdar.

Week #12: Early Birds Get the Best View

Breakfast by the sea. Doesn’t it sound great? And in the city like Istanbul, there should be plenty of nice breakfast places by the sea. But are there? Some of them are too crowded, some of them are next to the busy road, some of them are too far and some only have a good view but not really good food. Recently my friend told me about a newly opened place with a sea view, good food, good atmosphere and good service. Besides that, it’s pretty quiet because it’s on the 7th floor. Sounds promising, right?

We headed there to check it together on a beautiful sunny Sunday morning. We arrived there around 11am and the nice staff prepared us a breakfast place even though the breakfast is usually served between 7:30 and 10:30. I know, really early, but it’s totally worth it. Besides breakfast, you can also enjoy coffee, lunch or dinner on a beautiful terrace. The restaurant is called Azure the Bosphorus and it’s located on the 7th floor of the Metropolitan hotel at Findikli, just opposite the Mimar Sinan University.

Food is delicious. Extra plus are pastries and coffee which is included in the price. A breakfast plate costs 70 tl, but if you are not too hungry it is enough even for 2 people. 

Adress: Pürtelaş Hasan Efendi Mahallesi, Meclis-i Mebusan Cd. 47 B, 34427 Beyoğlu/İstanbul

Week #11: Dandy

You have to take time for your breakfast. And for your friends. And I think that the concept of the Turkish breakfast brings together friends (or family) and food. Isn’t that a great concept?

Weekend breakfasts are usually ideal time for gatherings and spending time with people close to you. But sometimes, this is not possible and you eat your breakfast alone. This doesn’t mean you won’t enjoy the delicious food, you will 🙂 So the past weekend was quite busy for me and between the morning run and the library session afterwards, I headed to one of my favourite places in Tophane area: Dandin.

I’ve been there many times alone or with friends. I really enjoy their classy concept and delicious food. And the way they serve it. When it comes to prices, it’s a bit pricey: 36 tl for a breakfast for one person and only 2 cups of tea. On the other hand, except the traditional breakfast menu, they also serve vegan breakfast. All avocado lovers won’t be disappointed neither.

Adress: Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Kılıç Ali Paşa Mescidi Sk. No:17, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul

Week #10: Vanilla Sky

This weekend spring we could get a taste of spring. Finally! So eating breakfast out and chasing some sunshine seemed like a perfect idea. The road (or a stomach, who knows) led me to one of my favourite neighbourhoods: Balat. I haven’t visited Fener and Balat for a few months, so every time I come I see some changes: new coffee shops, renovated buildings and, compared to a few years ago, more and more people.

In the past, I have had a breakfast at one of my favourite and very instagramable places in Balat, however this time I wanted to try something new. A friend of mine recommended me a small but tasty place called Vanilla Balat. The blue colour of their tables held a mirror t a blue sky. Breakfast was yummy and not too pricey (40 tl for 2 people) however, it doesn’t include eggs. We took an extra menemen (16 tl). Besides the usual, you get a small salad and a small plate of fruits. Instead of white bread, they offer simit (Balat is, after all, famous for it), dill poğaça and ciabatta.

Adress:  Balat Mahallesi, Vadina cad. 6/A, 34087 Fatih/İstanbul

In Conversation with New Istanbulites: A Bridge Connecting Cultures and Friends

Istanbul. Take a (guide) book of this city. How many times can you find words like “bridge”, “where cultures meet” “Europe and Asia”? I bet many times. The city of Istanbul has been regarded as a bridge between Europe and Asia countless times. It indeed is a place where cultures meet and mix. A melting pot of different cultures, languages. People from all over the world meet here. Once empires started and ended around today’s location of Istanbul. Even Napoleon said, that “If the World was only one country, Istanbul would be its capital”.

Today three bridges and two tunnels connect Europe and Asia. People from all over the world migrate to this city in a search for a better life or just another adventures. Many realise that this bridge has only an entrance and no exit.

I have been living in Istanbul for more than four years. The experience has been very interesting so far. Sometimes hard, sometimes pleasant. Nonetheless, I have learnt a lot. This city has opened new horizons for me. Most of the time via people I met.

I was lucky to meet and make friends from all over the world. International friendships enrich you. You are able to learn about another culture without travelling to another country. That is why I decided to make a short series of conversations with my friends. Conversations about why they came to Istanbul, and most importantly, about their countries and cultures… and FOOD.

Stay tuned.